The big pile of material waiting for the building of the sash to commence. The material is separated out for each pair of sash. I relied heavily upon Roy Underhill's book Working With Wedge and Edge for the proper sequence of cuts and other tips for making sash by hand. I recommend if you undertake this sort of project to get his book because the sequencing is very different from using power tools to do the work.
The sticking board. Crucial jig if you need to make thin muntin bars.
Using the sticking board with the new plane. Works like a dream. Thank goodness!
All mortices are chopped and the tenon checks are cut before any planes are used on the material. After these two operations are completed then I cut the glazing rabbet first and then the molded edge.
Another tip from Roy's book was the use of guide sticks. They are scrap pieces of wood that I marked out where the mortices and tenons started and stopped. I ended up having to make two sets of guide sticks because I had two different sizes of openings.
The big pile of material waiting for the building of the sash to commence. The material is separated out for each pair of sash. I relied heavily upon Roy Underhill's book Working With Wedge and Edge for the proper sequence of cuts and other tips for making sash by hand. I recommend if you undertake this sort of project to get his book because the sequencing is very different from using power tools to do the work.
The sticking board. Crucial jig if you need to make thin muntin bars.
Using the sticking board with the new plane. Works like a dream. Thank goodness!
All mortices are chopped and the tenon checks are cut before any planes are used on the material. After these two operations are completed then I cut the glazing rabbet first and then the molded edge.
Another tip from Roy's book was the use of guide sticks. They are scrap pieces of wood that I marked out where the mortices and tenons started and stopped. I ended up having to make two sets of guide sticks because I had two different sizes of openings.
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